Electric System

[ted.lowe]

Here is a scan of the one-wire diagram from Bob Batson of EVA:

[ted.lowe]

We're modifying the wiring in the Porsche from the EVA diagram because we're using the Raptor 1200 controller instead of the Curtis. We won't be using the accelerator pedal to activate the secondary contactor because Peter S (Raptor maker) says this isn't good for that controller (will reduce precharge of output capacitors).  We'll activate the secondary contactor with the key switch and the primary with the CONT output (pin 4) of the Raptor (which goes to 12V low after the output caps are pre-charged, about 1.5 seconds after key is turned on).  Here is the Raptor wiring diagram:

[ted.sanders]

Ted,

Yesterday's efforts suggests that one should very carefully tag all wires that are disconnected.  Even those who disconnect the wires do not remember to what item the connection was made.   Thus I suggest that when a connector is unplugged that a tag be attached to both ends indicating that they go together.  If a wire is totally disconnected it should be saved with a tag on each as to where it went.  If a wire is connected to some sensor this should be noted.  Every loose end should have an informational tag.  Also a wiring diagram should be acquired  for the car and keep at the conversion site.

I know at the beginning everyone is anxious to make progress.  However, wires are very difficult to trace through the various branches of the wiring harness.  The extra time used to label all loose wires will much more time when it comes time to make sure the original wiring must be reconnected.

Ted2

[ted.lowe]

Agreed Ted!  Methodical, methodical, methodical! This is an important lesson for people starting conversions! 

i believe part of this problem for the porsche was that we had someone else remove the engine (both a problem and a benefit of course). 

The good news is that just after everybody left yesterday, as i was cleaning up the work area, i discovered another bundle of 12v feeder wires that we had overlooked.  After connecting them to the 12v battery, BINGO, the car has 12v power once again!  i used the opportunity to lower the power windows (something we should have done from the start:-) and test out various portions of the 12v system.  A brief inventory:

headlights - motorized open/close working, regular and brights working
running lights - working
dashboard lighting - working (always on when key turned on)
turn indicators - right working, left rear not (perhaps a bad bulb or wire needs to be reconnected)
power windows - working
dome light - working (need to keep doors closed to prevent battery drain)

brake lights - didn't test
backup lights - didn't test
horn - didn't test
radio - didn't test
new lighted volt and amp meters - didn't test
windshield wipers - didn't test

Next week looks good for the first road test!!!!

[ted.sanders]

Ted,

That is GOOD NEWS!!!! A lot of voltage and resistance measurements have been eliminated.